11 June 2009

Faster, Funnier & Fairness in Boulder WC format

Five years ago, 8a suggested that they the lead format should be changed into flash. Of course, the idea was not so popular in the beginning but for 2009, all Lead World Cup qualifications will be done in a flash format.

8a has since 2007, complained about the disadvantage of starting last in the finals and this have been confirmed in the 2009 Boulder World Cup in an amazing way. Here is a totally new format which is based on flash in order to make competitions faster, funnier and more fair.

Minutes A B C D E
0-4 20 19 18 17 16
4-8 15 14 13 12 11
8-12 10 9 8 7 6
12-16 5 4 3 2 1
16-20 16 20 19 18 17
20-24 11 15 14 13 12
24-28 6 10 9 8 7
28-32 1 5 4 3 2
Today a World Cup Semifinal with 20 participants and 4 boulder lasts 2 hours and 36 minutes. A final with 6 participants and 4 boulders takes up to 2 hours. It should be mentioned that then the organizer have to rebuild and than the audience have to watch another long round.

If this would have to been changed into 4-minutes flash (or onsight) of five problems in the semifinal the duration would be reduced with 1 hour, thus making it into a 96 minute competition, check the table.





Minutes A B C D E
0-4 8 7 6 5
4-8 4 3 2 1
8-12 5 8 7 6
12-16 1 4 3 2
Superfinal
40 5
43 4
46 3
In the final, a 4-minutes flash (or onsight) competition for 8 participants + a super 4-minutes super final for the Top-5 would reduce the final with one hour, making it a 60 minute final.

You can either opt for zon and top counting but I opt for measuring holds like in lead, mandatory at least for the super final, in order for the audience to understand.

 Top-5 compete in a superfinal, one after another. This could be done Flash or Onsight.




General Advantages of the new flash (or onsight) format

1. Faster: The final competition day means almost 10 hours of for the participants and the audience plus route setting etc. To watch a 2 hour final without a break is to long. The new 8a flash format reduces this by 50 %.
2. Funnier: The participants will be able to climb more boulders and to see others climb plus cheering for their friends. (For onsight this will not happend).
3. Results: Both the audience will through a super final understand who is the winner. Today, it often takes some minutes to decide.
4. Fairness: The best climbers in the qualification, semifinal and final will have an advantage over the others in the superfinal.
5. Organizing: It will be easier for the organizer as they do not need isolations etc.
6. No Cheating: I have been told several times that some non-english speaking coaches have crossed the line of coaching.
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