12 November 2008
The hardest trad routes in the world
The info has been put together by Knut Rokne and he lists four 8c+:
Echo Wall - Dave McLeod
Lugori - Pou brothers
The greate arete - Steve Dunning
Meltdown - Bett Rodden
Route | French | English | Location | First Ascentionist | Repeats | Notes |
A Little Peculiar a.k.a. Elegy Direct | 8c | E6 7b | Roaches Lower Tier, Staffordshire | Paul Higginson | Unrepeated | Disputed Grade. |
Achemine | 8b | E9 6c | Dumbarton Rock, Scotland | Dave McLeod | Unrepeated | |
Au Sud de Nulle | 8b | Chamonix | Alain Ghersen | Au Sud de Nulle is an overhanging finger crack protected by wires, friends and pegs including an old ice peg | ||
Banana Pancake | 8b | Around Imst | David Lama | |||
Bellavista | 8c | Dolomites | Alex Huber | Maruo 'Bubu" Bole | ||
Blind Vision | 8b+ | E10 7b | Froggatt | Adrian Berry | Dave MacLeod | |
Book of Hate | 8b | Yosemite | Randy Leavitt | Beth Rodden | ||
Breathless | 8b+ | E10 7a | Tophet Wall, Lake District | John Dunne | Dave Birkett, Dave MacLeod | |
Camillotto Pellesier | 8b | Cima Grande, Italy | Mauro 'Bubu" Bole | Unrepeated | ||
Captain Invincible | 8b | E8 6c | Burbage Quarries | Sean Miles | Robin Barker | Semi-sport, fixed pins |
China Doll | 8b+ | Dream Canyon | Sonnie Trotter? | Ethan Pringle | ||
Cobra Crack | 8c/+ | Squamish, Canada | Sonnie Trotter | Nicolas Favresse, Ethan Pringle | ||
Country Boy | 8b | Colorado | Tommy Caldwell | Beth Rodden | ||
Deadline | 8b/+ | Ethan Pringle, Alex Honnold | ||||
Dihedral Wall | 8b+ | Yosemite | Tommy Caldwell | Unrepeated | ||
Dihedron | 8b+ | Joshua Tree | Randy Leavitt | Unrepeated | Fixed gear? | |
Divided Years | 8b+ | E10 7a | Buzzards Roost, Mournes | John Dunne | Dave Birkett | |
Doctor Doolittle | 8b | E10 7a | Curbar | John Arran | Unrepeated | |
East face of Monkey Face | 8b | Smith Rocks | Alan Watts | Many, Sonnie Trotter placing gear | FA done on pre-placed gear. First ascent placing gear Sonnie Trotter, '04. Felt 8b+ for placed on lead. | |
Echo Wall | 8c+ | Dave McLeod | Unrepeated | |||
Elder Statesman | 8c? | HXS 7B | Curbar | Steve McClure | Steve Dunning | McClure: "hardest move I've ever done" |
Eptiaph | ?? | Indian creek | Dean Potter | Unrepeated | No grade available | |
Equilibrium | 8b | E10 7a | Burbage South | Neil Bentley | Neil Gresham | |
Fathers Day | 8b+ | Alan Moore | Unrepeated | Placing gear on a sport route. | ||
FFA of Couzy Route | 8b | Dolomites (adjacent to Bellavista) | Mauro 'Bubu" Bole | Michael Mayr - called it 8a+ | 11-pitch route | |
Fiddler On the Roof | 8b | Fremont Canyon | Steve Petro | Jean-Pierre Ouellet | Roof Crack. Evil. Short | |
Five Year Plan | 8b | Flatrions | Ethan Pringle and 2 others | |||
From Switzerland With Love | 13+ | Indian creek | Didier Berthod | Disputed grade | ||
Great Shark Hunt | 8b | Mt. Buffalo (Oz) | Malcom 'HB' Matheson | Unrepeated | ||
Greenspit | 8b+ | Orco, Italy | Didier Berthod | Nicolas Favress | 12M Roof crack. | |
Hasta Sin Owt Ert Hoonds | E9 ?? | Dave Birkett | ||||
High Fidelity | 8c+ | E11?? | Caley | Steve Dunning | Unrepeated | |
Holdfast | Dave McLeod | Unrepeated | ||||
Iron Monkey | 8b+ | Eldorado Canyon | Matt Segal | Ethan Pringle | ||
Is not always Pasqua | 8b+ | E9 7a | Italy | Mauro Calibani | Don't Know | |
Learning To Fly | 13+ | Indian creek | ||||
Loaded | F8a+/8b | E8 7a | Ilkley | John Dunne | Unrepeated | |
Lost Horizons | 8b+ | Colorado | Rob Candilera | Unrepeated | Disputed FA | |
Lugori | 8c+ | El Picu Urriello | Pou brothers | Unrepeated | Pre-placed gear | |
Lurking Fear | 8b | Yosemite | Unrepeated | |||
Magic Line | 8c | Yosemite | Ron Kauk | Unrepeated | Pre-placed gear | |
Marbelous | 8b | E8 7a | Stanage | Robin Barker | Unrepeated | |
Meltdown | 8c+ | Yosemite | Beth Rodden | Unrepeated | ||
Mission Impossible | 8b | E8 6c | Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen Valley, Wales | Neil Carson | Unrepeated | Done on pegs, not trad gear |
Mr. Natural | 8b+ | Arapiles | Stuart Wythe | Don't Know | Not confirmed | |
No Way Jose | 8b/8b+ | Lake Powell's northern tip | José Luis Pereira | Unrepeated | ||
Orangutan Overhang | 8b+ | Independence Pass | Ethan Pringle | |||
Passage to Freedom (with bolt-on) | 8a+/8b | El Cap Tower | Leo Houlding | Unrepeated | Bolt on hold | |
Puss Pa Morfar | 8b+ | Furuberget, Sweden | Magnus Lindstedt | Peter Bosma, Erik Heyman | Disputed grade | |
Question Mark | 8c | E8 7a | Cribba Head, Cornwall | Ken Palmer | Disputed Grade | |
Rewind | 8a+ | E10 7a | Carn Vellan, Cornwall | Mark Edwards | Unrepeated | |
Rhapsody | 8c/+ | E11 7a | Dumbarton Rock, Scotland | Dave McLeod | Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure | 60/70 foot falls from last moves. |
Samson | 8b | E9 7b | Burbage South | Jerry Moffatt | Unrepeated | Disputed Grade |
Smoked Salmon | 8b | E8 7a/b | Bamford | Johnny Dawes | Nick Dixon, Tim Marsh | Disputed Grade |
South Face of Washington Column | 8b+ | Yosemite | Matt Wilder | Unrepeated | ||
Star Crack | 8b+ | Donner Summit | Alan Moore? | Nicolas Favress | ||
Stingray | 8b | Joshua Tree | Hidetaki Suzuki | Huber. Others? | ||
Stora Sjötaket | 8b | Häggsta, Stockholm | Tomas Hansson (pre placed gear) | Peter Bosma (w/o pre placed gear), Matt Adams, Johan Luhr | ||
The Great Arete | 8c+/V13 | E? 7b | Caley | Steve Dunning | Unrepeated | |
The Groove | E10 7B | Cratcliffe | James Pearson | Unrepeated | ||
The Nose | 8b+ | Yosemite | Lynn Hill | Scott Burke (sort-of), Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell | ||
The Path | 8b+ | Lake Louise | Sonnie Trotter | Ethan Pringle | ||
The Promise | F8a | E10 7a | James Pearson | Kevin Jorgenson, Alex Honnold | Disputed Grade. | |
To Hell And Back | E10 6c | Dave McLeod | Unrepeated | |||
Toxic Billberries | 8a+/8b | E8 7a | Wilton One | Gareth Parry | Pete Hurley | |
Transcendance | 8b | E8 7a | Northumberland | Malcom Smith | Robin Barker | |
Trauma | E9 7a | Dinas Mot, Llanberis Pass, North Wales | Leo Houlding | Unrepeated | ||
Ultimate Scuplture | 8b | E8 7b | Ramshaw | Justin Critchlow | Unrepeated | Holds broken, re-lead by Critchlow for "upper end" E8 7b |
Walk of Life | E12 7a | Devon Coast | James Pearson | Unrepeated | ||
Welcome to the Cruel World | 8b+ | E9 7a | Scafell East Buttress, Lake District | Dave Birkett | Unrepeated | |
Whistling Kite | 8b | Frog Buttress (Oz) | Paul Smith | Dave Jones | Disputed FA. Dave Jones repeated placing gear | |
Zebree | 8b+ | Val-David (Canada) | Jeff Beaulieu | Jean-Pierre Ouellet | FA done on pre-placed gear. JP Ouellet placed gear on lead | |
Zodiac | 8b/8b+ | Yosemite | Huberbaum | Tommy Caldwell | ||
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