12 November 2008

The hardest trad routes in the world

The info has been put together by Knut Rokne and he lists four 8c+:
Echo Wall - Dave McLeod
Lugori - Pou brothers
The greate arete - Steve Dunning
Meltdown - Bett Rodden

Route French English Location First Ascentionist Repeats Notes
A Little Peculiar a.k.a. Elegy Direct 8c E6 7b Roaches Lower Tier, Staffordshire Paul Higginson Unrepeated Disputed Grade.
Achemine 8b E9 6c Dumbarton Rock, Scotland Dave McLeod Unrepeated
Au Sud de Nulle 8b Chamonix Alain Ghersen Au Sud de Nulle is an overhanging finger crack protected by wires, friends and pegs including an old ice peg
Banana Pancake 8b Around Imst David Lama
Bellavista 8c Dolomites Alex Huber Maruo 'Bubu" Bole
Blind Vision 8b+ E10 7b Froggatt Adrian Berry Dave MacLeod
Book of Hate 8b Yosemite Randy Leavitt Beth Rodden
Breathless 8b+ E10 7a Tophet Wall, Lake District John Dunne Dave Birkett, Dave MacLeod
Camillotto Pellesier 8b Cima Grande, Italy Mauro 'Bubu" Bole Unrepeated
Captain Invincible 8b E8 6c Burbage Quarries Sean Miles Robin Barker Semi-sport, fixed pins
China Doll 8b+ Dream Canyon Sonnie Trotter? Ethan Pringle
Cobra Crack 8c/+ Squamish, Canada Sonnie Trotter Nicolas Favresse, Ethan Pringle
Country Boy 8b Colorado Tommy Caldwell Beth Rodden
Deadline 8b/+ Ethan Pringle, Alex Honnold
Dihedral Wall 8b+ Yosemite Tommy Caldwell Unrepeated
Dihedron 8b+ Joshua Tree Randy Leavitt Unrepeated Fixed gear?
Divided Years 8b+ E10 7a Buzzards Roost, Mournes John Dunne Dave Birkett
Doctor Doolittle 8b E10 7a Curbar John Arran Unrepeated
East face of Monkey Face 8b Smith Rocks Alan Watts Many, Sonnie Trotter placing gear FA done on pre-placed gear. First ascent placing gear Sonnie Trotter, '04. Felt 8b+ for placed on lead.
Echo Wall 8c+ Dave McLeod Unrepeated
Elder Statesman 8c? HXS 7B Curbar Steve McClure Steve Dunning McClure: "hardest move I've ever done"
Eptiaph ?? Indian creek Dean Potter Unrepeated No grade available
Equilibrium 8b E10 7a Burbage South Neil Bentley Neil Gresham
Fathers Day 8b+ Alan Moore Unrepeated Placing gear on a sport route.
FFA of Couzy Route 8b Dolomites (adjacent to Bellavista) Mauro 'Bubu" Bole Michael Mayr - called it 8a+ 11-pitch route
Fiddler On the Roof 8b Fremont Canyon Steve Petro Jean-Pierre Ouellet Roof Crack. Evil. Short
Five Year Plan 8b Flatrions Ethan Pringle and 2 others
From Switzerland With Love 13+ Indian creek Didier Berthod Disputed grade
Great Shark Hunt 8b Mt. Buffalo (Oz) Malcom 'HB' Matheson Unrepeated
Greenspit 8b+ Orco, Italy Didier Berthod Nicolas Favress 12M Roof crack.
Hasta Sin Owt Ert Hoonds  E9 ?? Dave Birkett
High Fidelity 8c+ E11?? Caley Steve Dunning Unrepeated
Holdfast Dave McLeod Unrepeated
Iron Monkey 8b+ Eldorado Canyon Matt Segal Ethan Pringle
Is not always Pasqua 8b+ E9 7a Italy Mauro Calibani Don't Know
Learning To Fly 13+ Indian creek
Loaded F8a+/8b E8 7a Ilkley John Dunne Unrepeated
Lost Horizons 8b+ Colorado Rob Candilera Unrepeated Disputed FA
Lugori 8c+ El Picu Urriello Pou brothers Unrepeated Pre-placed gear
Lurking Fear 8b Yosemite Unrepeated
Magic Line 8c Yosemite Ron Kauk Unrepeated Pre-placed gear
Marbelous 8b E8 7a Stanage Robin Barker Unrepeated
Meltdown 8c+ Yosemite Beth Rodden Unrepeated
Mission Impossible 8b E8 6c Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen Valley, Wales Neil Carson Unrepeated Done on pegs, not trad gear
Mr. Natural 8b+ Arapiles Stuart Wythe Don't Know Not confirmed
No Way Jose 8b/8b+ Lake Powell's northern tip José Luis Pereira Unrepeated
Orangutan Overhang 8b+ Independence Pass Ethan Pringle
Passage to Freedom (with bolt-on) 8a+/8b El Cap Tower Leo Houlding Unrepeated Bolt on hold
Puss Pa Morfar 8b+ Furuberget, Sweden Magnus Lindstedt Peter Bosma, Erik Heyman Disputed grade
Question Mark 8c E8 7a Cribba Head, Cornwall Ken Palmer Disputed Grade
Rewind 8a+ E10 7a Carn Vellan, Cornwall Mark Edwards Unrepeated
Rhapsody 8c/+ E11 7a Dumbarton Rock, Scotland Dave McLeod Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure 60/70 foot falls from last moves.
Samson 8b E9 7b Burbage South Jerry Moffatt Unrepeated Disputed Grade
Smoked Salmon 8b E8 7a/b Bamford Johnny Dawes  Nick Dixon, Tim Marsh Disputed Grade
South Face of Washington Column 8b+ Yosemite Matt Wilder Unrepeated
Star Crack 8b+ Donner Summit Alan Moore? Nicolas Favress
Stingray 8b Joshua Tree Hidetaki Suzuki Huber. Others?
Stora Sjötaket 8b Häggsta, Stockholm Tomas Hansson (pre placed gear) Peter Bosma (w/o pre placed gear), Matt Adams, Johan Luhr
The Great Arete 8c+/V13 E? 7b Caley Steve Dunning Unrepeated
The Groove E10 7B Cratcliffe James Pearson Unrepeated
The Nose 8b+ Yosemite Lynn Hill Scott Burke (sort-of), Beth Rodden, Tommy Caldwell
The Path 8b+ Lake Louise Sonnie Trotter Ethan Pringle
The Promise F8a E10 7a James Pearson Kevin Jorgenson, Alex Honnold Disputed Grade.
To Hell And Back E10 6c Dave McLeod Unrepeated
Toxic Billberries 8a+/8b E8 7a Wilton One Gareth Parry Pete Hurley
Transcendance 8b E8 7a Northumberland Malcom Smith Robin Barker
Trauma E9 7a Dinas Mot, Llanberis Pass, North Wales Leo Houlding Unrepeated
Ultimate Scuplture 8b E8 7b Ramshaw Justin Critchlow Unrepeated Holds broken, re-lead by Critchlow for "upper end" E8 7b
Walk of Life E12 7a Devon Coast James Pearson Unrepeated
Welcome to the Cruel World 8b+ E9 7a Scafell East Buttress, Lake District Dave Birkett Unrepeated
Whistling Kite 8b Frog Buttress (Oz) Paul Smith Dave Jones Disputed FA. Dave Jones repeated placing gear
Zebree 8b+ Val-David (Canada) Jeff Beaulieu Jean-Pierre Ouellet FA done on pre-placed gear. JP Ouellet placed gear on lead
Zodiac 8b/8b+ Yosemite Huberbaum Tommy Caldwell

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