Bangalore bolts

“Bolts for ” A Success!

By: Gerhard Schaar Comprehensive Topo with pictures

I recently spent two months in training local climbers from how to bolt sport climbing routes. Together we put up 50 new pitches in the areas of Badami and Ramanagaram.

The lines that we put up define a new standard in the area, since most of the “old” routes have been bolted inadequately. We had brought 800 bolts to for the project, as well as a new drilling machine and all of the additional equipment necessary for bolting routes.

I had spent two months in in 2005 as well, and the experience made me realize how many possibilities I had climbing-wise in comparison to the Indian locals. Many of the routes I had encountered on that trip were really poorly bolted and in miserable shape.

I wanted to give back something to people who were just not as lucky as I was in my life, so I started the “Bolts for Bangalore” Project after I finished my round the world trip.

The hardware required for bolting was either too far out of reach financially for the local climbers, or simply unattainable, so during my slide shows in I collected donations, and I also invested countless hours working with potential sponsors. Finally, Austrian alpine hardware specialist Austrialpin, German based anchoring technology giant Fischer and the drilling machine producer Bosch were all on board. When the shipping company Schenker agreed to send the 120 kg package per aircargo to , the stage was set.

The project was focused on training my local climber friends how to bolt a sport climbing route in the right way. So, I went to open new routes with four locals of at their home crags of Badami and Ramanagaram.

The hardest part of the whole project was developing a basic sense of concern for security in my Indians friends´. Climbing on jiggling bolts (many hand drilled!!!), rapping on one single hanger, or having potential ground falls was normal for them. It was very hard to make them realize that 6a / 5.10 climbers just need more bolts, or that an anchor consists of two individual points. When we started bolting, it seemed to be an incredible waste of precious material to them. The value of the bolts we used on one route usually represented about half a months pay in .

In the sandstone area of Badami we set up 35 new pitches in four different areas, from 5c to 8a, with the majority being in the easier grades. In order to avoid the hangers of the first bolt and the accessible anchors being stolen, only glue-in bolts were used at these spots. The combination of one top rope glue in (Austrialpin model HA11B) and one regular glue-in bolt (Austrialpin HA01A), to create a redundant system, meant a complete new standard in this climbing area. All the glue-ins had been fixed with “upat” M12 X 100 glue cartridges. All of the other bolts we used in between were Fischer 10 mm stainless steel expansion bolts with Austrialpin hangers.

Some of the guys I was with had set up some routes before. But these ones had either been hand drilled, or done with a battery operated drilling machine that could do about two 10mm holes on a good day. So, a new route had always been a matter of a few days work for them so far. When I mentioned my plans to do maybe 4-6 routes a day, without being aware of that fact, they looked at me in weird confusion. They did not know if I had just made a joke or if I was really serious. After I had made it clear that this was serious stuff, they looked at my as if I were the greatest wizard of all times.

The second destination of the project was the granite area “Ramanagaram”. We managed to set up 15 routes in three different areas before my friend Pranesh and I were nearly put into jail.

I recall the disconcerting scenario like this: It seemed like this ranger from the “Forest Department” wanted to squeeze out some bribe money from me. We met before, and everything was alright. At this occasion he asked me what value all the equipment and gear had, and I answered honestly without really being aware of the consequences. The next day it seemed that he did the math (our equipment was worth about 2000. - € / 3000. - US $) and got greedy, because he came back with his “friend” from the police.

After we were asked “to get down from the rock immediately”, an argument started between my Indian friend Pranesh and these guys. I understood nothing. I could just tell by Pranesh´s look that we were not doing well at all.

In a short pause of the argument, where they all had to gasp for air, Pranesh informed me about the situation we faced. They wanted to see permission we did not have. No permission meant that we were breaking the law. Breaking the law meant that we were being criminal. We both knew that this was not a good thing to be in .

After one hour of visualizing myself in an Indian jail, a glint of hope appeared on the horizon. Pranesh could reach a climbing friend whose father-in-law works for the Forest Department Headquarter in . To our relief, Pranesh’s friend’s father-in-law seemed to be able to overrule the local decision makers.

We ended up being the first climbers in the history of the area, who had to apply with a formal letter, to get a permission “for climbing on rocks” and ended paying 25 Rupees- (aprox. 75.- US $ Cent / 50.- € Cent) per day per head. The ranger came back every day (!) to check our permission, despite the fact that it was valid for one week!

Due to all this excitement, and the confusion resultant from the law situation, we were forbidden to put up any more new routes, so we spent the rest of our time in Ramanagaram sending all of our newly bolted climbs and living with the local farmer and his family.

For more information visit www.gerhardschaar.com