DIMA Rock Master report

Chris very close to onsighting 8c above 400 spectators.

(c) All pics by www.dimarockmaster.com

Sharma was totally superior is the bouldercomp where he climbed all four problems made by himself, Andrada, Mrazek, & Sainz

#2 Gros, Sharma #1 Sarkany, Mrazek #3 Midtboe, Gros

The fourth edition of the DIMA Rock Master gave very strong impressions, most good ones: Spectators, Sharma, Volunteers, Money, Boulder interaction and the local organization. However, just a couple hours after the climbers left, I can still hear the complaints: Rain, IFSC, Routes, Baltzola cave, Waiting and NO Party!

Let´s start with Chris Sharma. I mean just to get Chris to compete and give from himself much more than I have ever seen before should give the local organisor huge credit. Chris was totally superior in the boulder duell where the four competitors put up four superb problems. In the route competition he was second after Tomas Mrazek (the opposite result from the Boulder comp) and in the Baltzola cave he had a 33 minutes 8c onsight show in front of 400 spectators, falling only three moves from the top. If they can make him come back, DIMA has a good chances of being one of the best comps in the future. In fact the whole status of the competition scene will gain a lot from Sharma taking a part of it. However, let us see the last day from Chris' perspective.

He wakes up early as his girlfriend competes at 10 but he is not allowed to go to the wall. After killing some hours, there is the competition meeting at 14 where the IFSC judge answers Chris question - You have to start climbing within 40 seconds after you have entered the arena.

After the meeting, his very good friend Andrada tells him that he was disqualified for clipping from the second last hold. A discussion starts whether Dani sould make a written appeal but Dani doesn´t care, probably loosing Euro 500-1,200. (The IFSC rules clearly states that it is OK to clip the anchor from wherever you want!)

Lunch, and then Daila and Chris friends leaves at 17 to compete and watch the final. After killing some more hours, the buss picks him up at 21. Warming-up preparation until 23. However, there is a delay since the IFSC route setters are working up on the skylift for about an hour, all in front of awaiting spectators. Time is now 24.00.

Fifteen minutes later Sharmas 40 seconds start but he has time to wave and get the energy from the spectators who have been sitting under unbrellas for more than an hour.

After four meters of climbing, he almost falls because a hold spins. Grabbing the next one, he smiles and spins the hold several time but continues. When he realizes that the only solution is to stand on the spinning hold he spins it again with his hand several times and comes dows (According the IFSC rules he should have been discqualified for not stopping immediately).

Chris is once more put into the isolation area, just behind the wall. At 1, he starts again and after 10 metres of 7c+ climbing he just nails the first crux move, but only with two fingers open hand.

After pendeling three times he establish contact with three fingers and at the following pendel body move he gets it with closed crimp. 45 seconds later he is in the same position after trying the next move with all possible body and hand hold positions. No luck, and he falls when he tries to cross into the next move. The spectators give him all their energy but the IFSC guy take him into the isolation area again.

Sitting in the isolation area with Usobiaga he understands that Mrazek is climbing well and when the official brings him into the arena again he knows that he was beaten. Last out is the local Basque climber Usobiaga, WC winner 2007, but he also, like all the rest falls on the first crux moves. 

Then the route setters starts to prepare the female super final which will take place on the men's route. The male competitors discovers that they for some reason have added several jugs to route making the first 8 meters of 7b into a 7a jug fiesta.

Obviously, Sarkany and Gros cruise this and then they both fall in the long 7c+ sequence.The cermony ends at half past 1 and then it is all over. Mrazek wants to invite everybody to a beer with his price money but the music is turned off and there is no party!

We decide to go to the hotel instead and make a small cellebration and Mrazek is complaining about everything like a angry dog. Sharma is fine smiling as always but in the car returning to the hotel I hear him say one negative comment. Back at the hotel at 2, it is closed and when the night portier opens the door he says everything is closed but he can bring some water. Sharma goes to bed and a youngster steals some wine and these guys did not get much sleep before the buss picked them up at 10 in order to climb at Baltzola.

The DIMA Rock Master is very well organized and the logistics are excellent. (Two battery pumps to the 8A Airpads were stolen and the next morning 44 Euros is delivered at the reception at exact 10.) There is a great future for the concept and guys like Jon Iriberri are really working hard and professionally. In total, the competitors got some Euro 40 000 besides everything being paid, which is three times more than any other competition pay their competitors.

"We try the best to improve the concept. But in order to be part of the IFSC circuit, which is essential, we are stuck with their concept and the problemes their route setters face. I mean, last year they and we were lucky but their task to get only one to the top is almost impossible."