Vertical-Life
16 May 2008
Markus Bock does 20 year project
Markus Bock climbes possible new 9a in the Frankenjura
The route, left of the classic "Kaum Zeit zum Atmen" by Wolfgang Guellich in Frankenjura, was first bolted by Klaus Buechele in middle of the 80's.
In the middle of the 90's Markus friend Werner Thon rebolted the route with glued bolds and Werner tried to engage with the route bit closer.
At this time Markus had also had a look on it, but has not seen a chance for success on it.
Markus describes the route in the following words:
"This is a 3Star route in a very classical area.Technical, small crimps,bad footholds and of course not chipped".
1st of May Markus succeded on another project named "Three Suns And One Star" 8c+ and with this ascent Markus felt strong and fit enough for an even harder route.
It took him another 5 days to finally climb the route on 13th of May 2008.This was the day before Markus left for Sweden for some days to visit his friend Henrik Bolander there. "It was great feeling for me to do the route because I was really close two days before but I fell on the second last move.
The route is called "The Essential" and Markus suggests 11/9a for it.
We must all remember that a route as hard as this one, bolted and nearly impossible in the past, can become a success sometime in the future even without chipping holds.
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The route, left of the classic "Kaum Zeit zum Atmen" by Wolfgang Guellich in Frankenjura, was first bolted by Klaus Buechele in middle of the 80's.
In the middle of the 90's Markus friend Werner Thon rebolted the route with glued bolds and Werner tried to engage with the route bit closer.
At this time Markus had also had a look on it, but has not seen a chance for success on it.
Markus describes the route in the following words:
"This is a 3Star route in a very classical area.Technical, small crimps,bad footholds and of course not chipped".
1st of May Markus succeded on another project named "Three Suns And One Star" 8c+ and with this ascent Markus felt strong and fit enough for an even harder route.
It took him another 5 days to finally climb the route on 13th of May 2008.This was the day before Markus left for Sweden for some days to visit his friend Henrik Bolander there. "It was great feeling for me to do the route because I was really close two days before but I fell on the second last move.
The route is called "The Essential" and Markus suggests 11/9a for it.
We must all remember that a route as hard as this one, bolted and nearly impossible in the past, can become a success sometime in the future even without chipping holds.
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