Arjan de Kock - The new boulderer star  (7)
 

Arjan de Kock restarted bouldering this summer and did go from a good route climber to a world class boulderer. How could it happened and amazing pictures? (The article has been edited in order to fit normal screens.)



 
Best Climbing rope - 2010?  (2)
 

Based on 1 350 unique votes, Best Climbing rope - 2010? (Percentage in 2009)
Beal 26 % (30)
Sterling 20 % (15)
Mammut 17 % (19)
Edelrid 9 % (8), Tendon/Lanex 8 % (8), Roca 5 % (5), Petzl 4 % (-), Blue Water, Millet, Edelweiss and Other 3 %.



 
World Cup Chuncheon - Korea  (6)
 

1. Patxi Usobiaga ESP - Jain Kim KOR
2. Ramon Puigblanque ESP - Caroline Ciavaldini FRA
3. Sachi Amma JPN - Angela Eiter AUT
4. Adam Ondra CZE - Natalija Gros
5. David Lama AUT - Yana Chereshneva RUS
Final results
It should be noted that Jain Kim was the only one to top out the first qualification route and the semifinal route.



 
Two 8b's with a broken toe by Digiulian 
 

Sasha Digiulian has done two 8b's in Rodellar, La Kanabica and Gladiator with a broken toe. Here is a quick interview with the #1 in the world ranking game.

 
50/50 opinion on Treblinka, Hitler etc names  (3)
 

Based on 1 700+ unique votes regarding if routes names like Treblinka and Hitler etc is OK?
Yes = 41 %, Doubtful = 16 %, No = 43 %

 
Stay updated on "your" crags ascents 
 

You can follow all the action on your crag through the "advanced search". Just fill in the crag name and choose your time limit. In the near future, you will be able to select crags and get this info automatically in a personal alert window. Any further suggestions for developing the data base.

 
Börre and the Norweigian Rock Master  (8)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureBörre Bergshaven has bolted some 1 700 routes mainly with his own glue bolts. The next weekend he will orginize the second Norweigian Rock Master. Everything is orginized by Börre, including bolting up the comp routes, and he actually have paid Euro 30 000 from his own pocket and Hukkataival, Mrazek, Caprez, McClure, Sansoz etc and possibly Sharma are coming.
The story of "Bolting-Börre"(c) Ole Karsten Birkeland

 
7c+ OS by Tito Claudio Traversa (9)  (3)
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTito Claudio Traversa has onsighted Makach walou, 7c+ in Céüse. During the summer he has also done two 7c+ onsight and three 8a's. As a matter of fact, Tito has even a better score compared to when Adam Ondra was 9-years-old.

"Tito followed your suggestion and went more onsight," says his father. 8a has a policy of first of all report onsight ascent for children but normally we need some kind of OK from their parents until they are teenagers. Photo: T&GPhoto - Click to enlarge.

 
37 & 34 % increase this summer  (4)
 

Based on Google statistics, the number of visits have increased 37 % in 2010 and the number of unique visits have grown 34 %, compared to 2009.

Based on the 8a statistics, this week started with more than 33 000 visits on the Global page made by 7 300 unique computers. Including all country specific pages, we had close to 67 000 visits made by almost 10 000 unique computers.

 
9a+ by Magnus Midtbö 
 

Magnus Midtbö has done Dani Andrada's Ali hulk extension, 9a+ in Rodellar. He has also added two 8b's onsight to his scorecard and goes to #7 in the ranking game. Magnusmidtboe.com

 
La Sportiva strengthen the #1 position  (3)
 

Based on 2 100 unique votes: Best Climbing shoes?
La Sportiva has increased #1 position compared with a similar poll one year ago. (Last year poll)
La Sportiva 52 % (47)
Five Ten 26 % (31), Evolve 7 % (8), Scarpa 7 % (?), Boreal 3 % (?), Other 5 % (9).

 
Adam Ondra - The Globetrotter 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureTomorrow Adam Ondra will compete in the Lead WC in Xining, China. Three weeks ago he became the Boulder WC winner after a victory in Munich and in between he has been on a road trip to France. Some short questions in between the travelling. Another old article - What makes Adam Ondra unique? (c) Vojtech Vrzba.

 
8B by Angie Payne 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureAngie Payne has done Automater, 8B in RMNP. This might be the first female confirmed 8B ascent since there is just 24 straight 8B's in the database and nobody even call it soft. The 26-year-old has previously done several 8A - 8A+'s and she is a contendor of being the #1 female boulderer in the world. Picture from Urbanclimbermag.com Here is an old interview.

 
The best pictures of July 
 

Björn Strömberg has made the selection for July.

 
8c (+) onsights etc by Adam Ondra (17)  (22)
 

Adam Ondra has during his last 2-weeks road trip done another 21 very impressive ascents, 8a+ onsight and above, including onsighting three 8c' Home Sweet Home (8c+) and Smoke in Pierrot beach plus Dures Limites in Céüse.

He also did two 9a's, the FA of Push up in Verdon and Short cut in La Balme. Only his Top-10 of the roadtrip, including several down grades, would have made him #1 in the world ranking game. Three routes each in La Balme and Pierrot beach, he marked as "Poorly/Mainly chipped".

 
Re-FA of Biographie, 9a+ by Enzo Oddo (15)  (41)
 

Kairn.com reports that Enzo Oddo has reclimbed Chris Sharma's Realization, 9a+ in Céüse after the broken hold in the start. Apparently the name was changed back to Biographie which was the original name for the whole route and not just for the first 8c+ anchor.

 
Notizie dai Raboutou 
 

Click to Enlarge PictureIn un giro di due settimane a Rodellar, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (47) ha fatto la Family Manson, 8a+ al 3rd go. Poi ha fatto altri 5 8a. Il progetto è fare Welcome to Tijuana, 8c l'anno prossimo insieme a Shawn (12). Foto di Brooke (9) che fa il suo primo 8a, Brumisatore.

 
8a+ onsights per Charlotte Durif 
 

Charlotte Durif ha avuto giorni proficui in Verdon con due 8a+ e tre 8a onsight. E' da anni la miglior climber a vista del mondo e ha fatto il suo primo 8a+a vista a 14 anni. Altre info su Chadurif.fr

Quest'anno ha vinto la prima prova di Coppa del Mondo. Nel 2006, a 16 anni, aveva vinto l'europeo.

 
Nomi come Hitler e Treblinka etc sono OK? 
 

Il principale quotidiano svedese, DN, ha pubblicat un articolo riguardante i nomi nazisti di alcune vie di scalata. Un politico ha dichiarato che i posti con i nomi nazi saranno chiusi se non cambiati.Il responsabile della associazione svedese d'arampicata ha deto che verrà stabilita una disciplina per il futuro, ma per l'esistente non si può far nulla.
Cosa ne pensate?

 
Alizée Dufraisse realizza Arcadémicien, 8c by Fred Oddo 
 

Alizée Dufraisse "Arcadémicien" from frederic oddo on Vimeo.

 
Un milione e mezzo di salite nel database 
 

10 anni sono passati dalla prima alla registrazione 1.500.000 sul database

La Tick List vi suggerirà quali provare grazie al sistema delle stelle. Ci sono mille falesie recensite, ognuna con la propria tick list.. Suggerite altre falesie da inserire nel DB

 
James Webb intervista 
 

James Webb è #6 nel 8a world ranking game dopo una inarrestabile ascesa negli ultimi sei anni. Intervista con James che ha farttro 8 8b o più tra maggio e giugno, compreso il suggerimento di sgradare Jade da 8C a 8B+.

 
Richiamo di prodotti DMM 
 

DMM International Recall del Dragon Camming Device misura 6

 
Search & Add Ascents
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Christoph Beer - Ekel 7c+, Frankenjura
Click to Enlarge Picture
Selected Top List ->
Which is the Best Crash Pad - 2010?  (1)
 
Scorecard Warning! 
Debate/Jens: Since the very beginning of the scorecard more than 10 years ago we have had this "warning information" once you sign up as a new member.
"We would also like to explain that we do think that climbing is foremost about adrenalin, scenery and nice people. Sometimes you can add grades and points and it gets even more exiting, but don't lose your perspective. Take care!"

In the 8a yearbooks we have also run warning info similar to what you can read on cigarette packages.

Adrenaline, Beauty and Community are what 8a considers as the ABC of climbing.
 
Increased media interest for the World Cup 
Debate/Jens: Strange, but it seems like just because of the debate article below saying, "Decreased media interest for the World Cup", the media interest increased. The competition in China last weekend was hardly mentioned but the last comp in Korea is now mentioned by the biggest English spoken websites. :-)
 
Best Climbing rope - 2010? 
 

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