Siara Fabbri does Forever More sit start (8A+)

Siara Fabbri has done Forever More sit start (8A+) in Brione. "Good send vibes and lovely feeling learning how to make the bottoms moves feel natural." (c) Simone Tentori

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
We came back to Ticino after a long time away and I was psyched to try this line! Fun climbing on smooth holds next to the river, with some crimps and a mantle. The process on this boulder was really nice. In my eyes, the first 2 moves (to arrive at the crimp) are the hardest and then it is fine after that. These 2 moves initially felt weird and difficult but ended up being technical, where drop knee, full crimp, and squeezing the pinch at first instead of crimping (focus on where to apply force) made them feel natural. Motivated to one day have this so intuitive to be able to flash a boulder like this!

Ana Belen Argudo redpoints three 8c+'s in a month

Ana Belen Argudo reports on Instagram that she over the last four weeks has sent Open your mind (8c+) and La Novena Puerta (8c+) in Santa Linya, as well as, Joe Blau (8c+) in Oliana. (c) Javi Pec

The 21-year-old competed actively up until 2021 when she was #7 in the Combined Youth World Championship. Her progress sport climbing has been dramatic since leaving competitive climbing, and here is a mini-doc of her sending Cordia Maleficarum (9a) two years ago.

We came to Catalunya at the beginning of February, to visit Patxi Usobiaga at his house and to climb around. The first crag was Oliana (just 10 minutes from Patxi’s house) and my first time ever at the wall. I tried the super classic ‘Joe Blau’ 8c+ A 50 meters route, a style out of my comfort as I’m not used to climb routes of this type of endurance and length that often. So at that moment we combined Oliana with Margalef and the 23/02 on my 4 day on the route I sent it.

After that I came for the first time to the famous cave of Santa Linya and I tried ‘Novena Puerta’ 8c+ a completely different style with kneebars, and very physical. So at that moment we started to combine Santa Linya too and the 03/03 I sent it. So I wanted to find a new project till the very top of the cave, so I tried the second pitch ‘La Novena enmienda’ but it has a veeery long move for my span. Patxi was trying ‘Direct open your mind’ so I decided to try ‘Open your mind’ 8c+ and I like it very much because this one was pockets style with various monos and very physical. I struggled with the boulder on the last part till after falling a few times there I decided to change the beta and the next day with very high temperatures and humidity I sent it (19/03).

So now we are back in Margalef to start to combine with ‘El raco de la finestra’ projects. Day 1 to try first “Perfecto Passat R2” 9a a route that I already give it a few attempts last year. And the Day 2 to Santa Linya to try “Rollito Sharma R3” 8c+ as I want to get to the very top of the cave.

In the past I have been always focus on just on one route at a time till I sent it. But this new way of face the projects, mixing styles and different crags keeps my motivation very high all the time and relieve some of the pressure or the mental fatigue that you have when you are trying just one route. I also feel myself a lot more complete as a climber and that I’m just getting better and improving in so many ways, and at the same time I’m happier during the process of working the projects.

From the end of 2022 and till April of 2023 I was injured and there were 5 months I could not climb. When I recover from the injury and could climb again, between May and December I did 15 routes of 8c and 8c+ in six different climbing destinations. This started from my desire to climb a lot after being a long period with out not being able to do it, so for my head sounded better the idea of climb as many route as possible than to focus on only one harder project. I set the goal on doing 10 routes what seemed very ambitious, but after doing 6 or 7 I thought that I could put the aim on 15 and the 28/12/2023 I could do the last one, very close to the end of the year.

During the last 3 years I have done 26 routes between 8c and 9a. One of my lifetime goals is to send 8c or harder in as many places as possible.”

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Keenan Takahashi did the FA of Ego Death (8C) last September a couple of months after he did his first 8C+. "Immediately upon walking up to it, I knew it was something special if it was possible. It’s the sort of thing I’ve dreamed of since I started climbing, steep compression, at my limit, decentl…

Elias Iagnemma repeats Burden of Dreams- UPDATED!

Elias Iagnemma reports on Instagram that he has done the fourth ascent of Nalle Hukkataival's Burden of Dreams (9A) in Lappnor - Finland.

"This is the perfect boulder. It is not about the grade. I live four hours from Alphane but instead, I have taken the plane and also travelled with my van to Finland. The process has been complicated with a finger injury, skin cuts, bad weather and frustration. I guess it took me 20-25 sessions spread over five trips. In the end, it was more like a mental battle. I know I had the power, maybe too much [power].

I copied the new healhook beta which Will Bosi found but didn't use. Then I found a new paddle [dyno] beta for the last dyno. On the day of the send, I was alone. I did not get to grab the holds perfectly but I was so motivated. A couple of weeks before I fell on the last move but this time I had a perfect mindset and could control the padel finishing dyno. I started screaming and then ran down to check if I got it on tape and then I called my wife and my parents. They have been such a great support."


Elias first checked Burden of Dreams in 2022 but got injured afterwards and on the following two trips he suffered from cuts and skin problems. He went back home and worked on a replica he created. Last September, he got married and then they drove to Finland for their honeymoon and he stayed there for seven weeks. He returned by plane in February, but had to go home due to bad weather, prior to returning four days ago and completing the boulder problem yesterday. All in all, the Italian has spent close to 80 days in Finland.

"I have not done any specific training in the last year. I have just been bouldering outdoors and trying to open new boulders. This is my passion. At the scene, [the BOD boulder] it was all about keeping calm, recovering and not overdoing it. This is something I have learnt. It is easy to get a finger cut on the first move [your tries are limited due to that]. [To pass time] I was watching Netflix, walking in the forest, and doing some training scheduling for some clients. The rest days have been very frustrating but well awarded."

Moritz Welt repeats Stone Butterfly (9a+)

Moritz Welt has done the second ascent of Adam Ondra's Stone Butterfly (9a+) in Herculane. "5 sessions, power endurance with very complex and fun moves." This was the fourth 9a+ for the 22-year-old German who also has logged 20 routes graded 9a.

Can you tell us more about the trip and Stone Butterfly?
It's our second time here in Băile Herculane. My girlfriend and I visited this place last summer for 3 days and I checked out some of the hard lines. We liked it a lot here, so we planned to come back for a longer trip and finally this spring we made it! My main objective was to try and maybe send Stone Butterfly. I didn't know if 3 weeks would be enough but I was really psyched. Really surprised myself with doing it rather quickly after only one week!

The crags here are great and offer a lot of potential so I would definitely recommend to everyone to come here!

What is next?
My goal now is to send Black Cobra (2) (9a), which is at the moment the second hardest route here and maybe check out some open projects!

Sébastien Berthe repeats trad test-piece Bon Voyage

Sébastien Berthe, one of the very best multi-discipline climbers in the world from competitions to Big Walls, has completed Bon Voyage (9a) in Annot. (c) Soline Kentzel

"Bon voyage is this incredible route first ascended by James Pearson in early 2023, and then first repeated by the GOAT Adam Ondra a month ago, in February 2024. After long months of reflection, James proposed the grade of 9a, E12, which makes one of the hardest, if not the hardest trad route in the world. The route starts in the famous 8b+ trad-crack line “Le voyage” (or ”Les voillage faurmes la jenaice”) and then leaves the crack and traverses left into a blank impressive wall. The notion that on this wall, a route could be freeclimbed on gear, is akin to a magic trick. A big congratulations to the magician James, for having the vision and perseverance to see through his "Bon Voyage" till the end!

When leaving the Voyage, there are a few more “moderate” moves, big moves on good handholds and bad footholds. On the last rest, you need to place the last piece of gear, a little blue Totemcam, which can be quite tricky while climbing, to place in a pocket. From this point, the hard section starts: 12 really intense and complex moves, hard for the fingers, finishing on an amazing arete far left. The section itself could probably be graded 8c or 8c+, and it is quite runout. However, as Adam said, it is "probably safe" with a good belay. Nevertheless, there is a rocky spike, a "guillotine," a few meters below the final arete, which is rather intimidating. I believe that a bad fall at the wrong moment, with just a bit too much slack in the system, could likely result in hitting it.

I spent more or less 8 sessions in total on the route. I first tried Bon Voyage in April 2023 for half an hour after my flash ascent of “Le Voyage”, I immediately fell in love with the route, and decided it would be one of my main goals for 2024. That’s why I came back to Annot at the end of February this year, just a few days after Adam Ondra's lightning-fast ascent, with a firm intention to tackle the route! Despite very erratic weather conditions during this trip, I managed to have 3 sessions on the route. Right from the first session, I pushed myself to lead climb the route to get used to the placement of protections, the falls, and so on. My progress on the route was quite rapid, and by the third session, I was considering doing the entire difficult section in one go. Unfortunately, I injured my little finger on the key move of the route, a big move to the left from a very small mono-finger hold, a very aggressive and particular move. While attempting to link the section, I felt a sharp pain and a jolt in my hand and forearm... Diagnosis: a small tear or strain of the lumbrical muscles inside the hand. So, this first trip ended abruptly, and it's with frustration and, above all, a strong desire to return that I leave Annot!

Two weeks later, I'm back in Annot! My finger is a bit better, but I'm not fully healed yet. I can easily climb using four fingers, but I feel pain as soon as my ring finger and little finger are separated. I'm hesitant to jump back into the process so quickly, but the temptation to return to Bon Voyage is too strong: the route haunts me, and the weather for the upcoming days is perfect. A voice inside me tells me that I can try again despite the minor injury, that I could change my method in the crux move, use another finger, and that it should probably be okay for the other moves. I spend two sessions trying to regain good sensations, recalibrating the movements, and getting used to leading the beginning. To my great surprise, I manage to link the entire difficult section in one lead, albeit with great fear, because the potential fall is not only long but also possibly dangerous, which I find hard to estimate. Then, after a day of rest, I feel ready for some goes “A muerte"! That day, I put in a superb effort and fall at the crux from the ground. I feel quite close to sending it. Unfortunately, upon returning to the ground, I notice that I've severely torn my skin due to the crucial hold, that cursed mono-finger pocket, during my attempt, and I have a deep cut. Impossible to try again... So, I decide to take two days off and do everything to heal this wound as quickly as possible.

On March 19, 2024, I return to the crag after two days off. My motivation is at its peak; I'm eager to tackle the climb! My skin has more or less closed up, but I feel it won't hold for long. During warm-up, I test the move on a static rope, but I dare not try too hard as I feel the wound might open up directly. Well, at that moment, I know I might only get one shot. I'll have to give it my all! Before my attempt, I decide to put strong glue on my skin to protect the injury and prevent it from reopening until later. I'm feeling butterflies in my stomach; I'm stressed. I know it's possible, but I'll have to be good, to surpass myself! My preparation is meticulous; my rack is set up on my harness in detail. I leave nothing to chance and ensure that everything is optimized for my climb. There are many people at the crag (James Pearson has just arrived to work on a new project nearby), and the atmosphere is fantastic. But as I set off, everyone stops climbing and falls silent to watch my run; the tension is high. I give the last instructions to my belayer, James Taylor, an Englishman who came to work on the Voyage, and off I go!

I easily and quickly climb the first meters of the climb. I feel good and strong. After a few minutes of climbing, I'm already on the final rest; I make the last gear placement that I've worked on for a long time to execute it as best as possible. When I launch into the section, I am determined and ready to give it my all. The cheers grow louder and louder as I progress through the difficult and committing section. I'm at the crux now; I place my middle finger in that famous pocket and twist it to fit as best as possible. I can immediately feel all the glue coming off, and the hold attacking my flesh, but there's no time to dwell on it! I launch my body to the left and manage to grab the next hold with just my fingertips. And that's when the real battle begins. I know exactly what I have to do; I am precise in my movements, but I am in agony; with every move, I have to fight. My friends below are literally pushing me with their encouragement! There, I'm on the arete after a famous retreat during the most "delicate" movement in terms of commitment. Now I must remain focused, even though I know it's won. I make the last movements, shouting with joy! I did it! The relief and pleasure of reaching the top of this magnificent line overwhelm me.

Thanks to all those who helped and support me with this process: Soline, Jean-Elie, Mathieu (aka Michmich), James, Miguel, my parents Rico and Coco, Magali and Gilles, Tonio Rhode, James Taylor, Franco Cookson, Jacopo Larcher, and all the others… Thank you! An original film about the whole process and ascent is in preparation, stay tuned!"

Alex Khazanov climbs From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C)

Alex Khazanov, who won a Boulder WC in 2018, has sent From Dirt Grows The Flowers (8C) in Chironico. “A boulder that represents a level up in my personal climbing. The hardest part of the boulder is a legendary mantle, that a few years ago would seem impossible to me. Trying "Alphane" over and over became a mental challenge. Trying and climbing "From dirt" was a good reminder of how amazing and diverse our sport is. I could relax my mind and just climb a good personal challenge.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your progress on Alphane?
The last 3 trips to Switzerland the only boulder I have tried was Alphane. The trips were short, about 5 climbing days each, so I didn't have time for anything else. Alphane consumed my mind and I couldn't think about any other climb.

This trip the weather, my skin and mind needed a break. I always thought I would have zero chances on From Dirt…as mantles and mobility are not my strongest style of climbing. But it was in the shade and a short drive from Alphane. Doing it represents a growth in my personal climbing, and I am very happy about doing it rather quickly. I do feel like a better climber than I was.

As for Alphane, the weather this trip was really strange. Snowing one day and warm 18 degrees the next. So I didn't have many good tries from the start. I do feel the flow on the boulder and confident I can send, I hope to come back in two weeks.

This boulder is very hard. I have spent about 20 sessions on it already and saw some of the best climbers in the world try it. Definitely feels like a 9A.

What are your current competition plans?
This year is last one of my competition career. I will not do any World Cups and compete only in the Olympic qualifiers. I have sacrificed a lot for the World Cups and I am ready to move on. The style of climbing in competition has changed a lot, and although I feel the best I ever have in my style, I feel like a cannot show it in World Cups anymore. It's okay, and it's the progression of the competitions. The beauty of our sport is that I can still show it on rocks, and I very much plan to do so in the upcoming years. I also coach Ayala Kerem, so now that I have stopped competing I can dedicate myself more for her training.

Abigail Humber redpoints Spannuth Armada (8c)

Abigail Humber has completed Spannuth Armada (8c) in Summersville Lake. ”Such a unique route that deserves more ascents. Technical yet powerful climbing with a spicy foot cut at the end. Psyched to get the FFA of this amazing line. :)” (c) Bill Holman

Can you tell us more about Spannuth Armada and the two year gap between this 8c and the first 8c you completed?
After the Youth World Championships last summer, which were my last competition as a youth competitor, I wasn’t really sure what direction I wanted to go in regarding climbing’s role in my life. I had a lot of accumulated fatigue, and I knew I needed to change my approach to training and climbing performance. I also started college this year, and I wanted to make sure I wasn’t so focused on climbing that I couldn’t develop the other parts of myself. I also decided to go vegan for ethical reasons. (I was originally concerned that choosing to go vegan would negatively affect my climbing, but I actually feel great!)

After taking some time off, I was looking for something to motivate me and I saw some video footage of Spannuth. The idea of going outside again and getting strong enough to try Spannuth got me psyched on climbing and training again.

In terms of why it took me two years to send another 8c, I try to always follow what gets me psyched in the moment. While I was in youth I was splitting my time between competitions and outdoor climbing, so I had limited time. I also spent a significant amount of time on Thug Life (8b) in the Red River Gorge, because it was a significant route to me and a dream project of mine (even though it was “only” 8b). I spent a lot of time in the gym last year though, since I wanted to perform well in my last year as a youth competitor. It payed off, because I was able to get 2nd at Nationals and placed 17th at Youth Worlds!

Iris Bielli does Prinzip Hoffnung (8b/+) trad

Iris Bielli has repeated Beat Kammerlander’s Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+) in Bürser Platte. The 20-year-old, who says her passion is multi-pitch climbing, onsighting and technical slab climbing, sent her first 8c in January. Beat Kammerlander first did the 40 meter line with bolts before chopping them, and in 2009, he made the first ascent with trad gear.

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I visited the Bürser Platte for the first time at the end of December, unfortunately the route was wet, and it was too cold to climb, nonetheless the line immediately charmed me with its aesthetics. I returned for a day trip on March 3, many hours of driving and little climbing but enough to fuel me up to return the following weekend. On Saturday, I studied the movements and gear placements while top-roping and on Sunday I attempted a lead climb. During my first lap, I fell in the final part of the crux slab due to sweaty fingertips caused by heat, humidity and even a bit of tension. I waited for 3 hours, in the meantime the wind picked up, my hands dried and I managed to send the route on the second lead attempt. I think Prinzip Hoffnung is a truly special line because it combines the mental factor of trad climbing with the technical difficulties of precarious slab climbing, all in a relatively safe way.

Michaela Kiersch does Victimes del Passat R2 (8c+)

Michaela Kiersch is back in Margalef where she has completed Combifetis (8c) and Victimes del Passat R2 (8c+). (c) Jan Novak

Over the last couple of years Kiersch has completed a dozen boulder problems 8B to 8B+, as well a dozen routes 8c+ to 9a+.

Can you tell us more about your current trip and the 8c+ you just sent?
It shares the start with Victimes del futur (9a) and it was helpful to already be familiar with the bottom moves, even though it really only shares about 2-3 draws. I fell maybe 2 days on R1 and then sent R2 the next day. There is a tricky match in a pocket with 2 monos which was super difficult for me. I ended up finding alternative beta with a crimp that was a bit harder but less precise and it made the difference! I’m finally settling into a routine here in Margalef after about 2 weeks. My skin is good and the sends are coming together. I’ll stay at least another week or so.

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