James Webb reports on Instagram that he has completed two Giuliano Cameroni FA’s in Valle Bavona, Solar Plexus (8C) and Eye in the Sky (8C). "This line in particular is on the first of many house sized blocks and is just a dream to climb. Comfy rock, fun moves, powerful yet technical etc etc. Hands down one of the best out there!" (c) Patinaeater

What was the key for the ascents?
I had tried them both before. I sent eye in the sky in the evening. And then the next morning I went and sent Solar Plexus. They both are quite low percentage so I think the key was a bit of luck haha. Especially on Solar Plexus. The first move is one of the more complex and difficult single movements out there. Not to mention it’s on river polished granite so that adds a whole other element when it comes to conditions and the proper friction to stick to the holds.

What are your summer plans?
Right now summer plans are to spend time hiking deep into the Sierra searching for new areas. Possibly a trip to Colorado to try a few things but mostly spending my time here in California developing in the alpine.

Solomon Kemball, who has three 8C ascents under his belt, has repeated Aidan Robert's Isles of Wonder Sit (8C) in Ogwen valley, going with the FA 8C+ grade. "Absolute warfare on this one, 3 [individual] month-long trips and a year and a half of training. 8B for the bottom section is a joke 20+ sessions to get through that. I think the sit section has to be around 8C and the lowest it could be top end 8B+.

Can you tell us more about your process and how it all came together?
I started trying it I think last February when I did the stand which took me around 30 minutes. I immediately got hooked as it's such a striking bloc in a beautiful location but knew I wasn't strong enough at the time so I spent a few months training specifically for it with a couple weekend trips up to see how it was getting on. And then I dedicated the whole month of may to trying to do it which I got close to getting through the sit section but after my best session I slipped on the walk back down and subluxed my shoulder which was probably due to having annihilating it on the boulder 10 minutes previously. That cut the first trip short and then was back to training over summer to come back in autumn which was abruptly ended again this time due to lower back issues. It twisted the beta I used so it became sore and a big drop off of a highball a day after tweaked it and had to crawl back to my car. I tried to let it heal and carry on but tweaked it a second time a few days later and ended the trip there.

Then back to training and rebuilt my board so it was steeper to make a replica of isles which I then trained on once a week mixed in with other specific training till I went back in May 2024 giving myself another month to try, not get injured and actually send it.

By this point I think I have had around 15 sessions on the real thing and once I got on it even with all the training it felt no closer than when I first started trying it. Fortunately after I think 4 sessions I got back into the swing of things and fell on the last move of the sit section which was a new high point, however the next day I came down with food poisoning or a stomach bug and then proceeded to have the shittest 3 sessions not being able to link any of the moves.

Fortunately my mate Dom came up with my the next session which I had in my mind might be the last of the trip as it was starting to aggravate my knee and I wasn't getting anywhere and he brought the psyche and a lot of video analysis which meant I somehow put of nowhere managed to get through the sit section for the first time and drop the last move of the bloc but after 4 hours already there that was the session over.

We came back two days later and I couldn't get through the sit section again my knee was minced and I only had a few days left I thought this would be my last session and it wasn't going to plan. The next day it looked like a storm was coming through so I borrowed a tarpaulin and went back up in the morning to rig one over the top in an effort to keep it dry. The storm lasted two days but gave my knee enough time to heel up enough to give it one more session.

We went up in the afternoon to find the tarpaulin having been ripped off in the storm but some what dry I spent an hour drying it up and then we headed back down the hill to see Dom send his proj. and came back up for around 5 a long warm up and drying the rest of it up and first go found my way to the last move and catching the hold but coming flying off. It was on.

Big rest and it's done another go and I'm back at the last move but again flying off. Another and again last move and off. It just didn't feel right when I was in the position for that last move by this point we had been there for 3 hours and I was feeling done but was just going to stay there until I couldn't get to that last move no matter how tired I was or ruined my knee got. Next go I found myself at the last move but this time it felt right and I knew it was done and shortly found myself on top of the bloc.

Enrique Beltrán Blasco, who did his first, out of nine 9a's, just over two years ago, has completed No pain no gain 9a+ in Rodellar, giving it a personal grade of 9a . "The first methods in the crossing [traverse] were without a knee [pad], now you can rest on that part a little and I think the difficulty changes." (c) Álvaro Lafuente

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route impressed me since I was a child, it was a reference and what motivated me the most was that my two friends Dani and Taus equipped it. It is arranged in two parts, a first of 8c+ and then a traverse of small holds of about 18 movements that will be 8c, from there to the chain a small step and an easy part. The route has cost me less than expected, I started two weeks ago to make attempts from the ground and I always advanced a little more, in total it would have been a month

Jonathan Siegrist has made the FA of Anemology (9b) in the Utah Hills. The 38-year-old has logged 76 routes 9a and harder, and his list includes 26 FA’s and six 9b’s. (c) Ryan White

”A season long battle with conditions, torn skin and very hard climbing. Felt impossible at first, especially the bottom. So incredibly psyched to finish this thing just in time as the conditions closed out. Really hard bouldering, varied climbing and no easy moves until the chains! I decided against pre-clipping the third draw as it was a matter of difficulty and not safety. As always, unsure on the grade, but I suggest 9b.

Can you tell us more about the route and the difficulties?
The route starts with a very hard boulder problem - quite unique between flat edges requiring a lot of tension, ending with an explosive move to an undercling. There is also a very hard clip in the middle of this sequence. After this you have an intense and unrelenting section to the finish with some very small crimps and dynamic moves through a roof (red point crux) and an enduro finish. Even getting to the anchor is another small crux.

Totally estimations but the bottom feels like v13 [8B] to me (based on Tension Board grades) and after it’s around 5.14+ [8c+ or so] to the anchor.

Coudert Camille has made the first repeat of Killian Chabrier's Jack under the Box (8B+) in Fontainebleau, suggesting an upgrade to 8C. The 28-year-old sent Soudain seul (9A) in 2022 and frequently suggests upgrades and downgrades for the boulder problems he completes. (c) La Lili

Can you tell us more about this line and your experience?
I tried this boulder three years ago, at the time the boulder hadn’t been made yet and no one had tried it. It took me two sessions to find the beta and I quickly fell on the last movement. Ultimately I didn’t manage to do the boulder at this time then I put it aside and seriously started again recently.

What is your rationale for the upgrade?
Killian and I were not sure of the rating but as he did it very quickly we decided to announce it as 8B+. Finally, now that I have more experience in this grade (and Kilian too) it seemed obvious that the boulder was rather 8C. The boulder is divided into 2 sections. The first four moves are very physical in compression, worth 8B. Then it continues without rest on a movement in 8A+.

I talked about it with Kilian on a trip to Switzerland. We found that it was harder than all the 8B+ in Switzerland we had the chance to do and we found it even harder than some 8C's that we tried. Finally, when I went back there recently with Killian, we had it confirmed. We finally agreed that in Switzerland the boulder would have been graded hard 8C, which is why I decided to upgrade it to 8C.

What about the micro ventilator that can be seen in the Instagram video?
The ventilator just allows me to cool my hands a little because it’s hot these days. When I did the boulder it was 15 degrees, and I am a climber who sweats a lot on my hands. Without the ventilator with such temperatures it’s almost impossible for me. I therefore prefer to use it rather than wait six months for the best conditions.

Kacper Heretyk, who the last month added a third and fourth 8c+ redpoint to his scorecard, has done Stal Mielec (9a) in Dolina Kluczwody. The route was originally 8c+ but then artificial holds were removed in 2012 and Piotr Schab made the FA, four years later. (c) Piotr Drożdż

”I put a lot of work into the journey, both on the road and in training, so I'm even more happy that the risk associated with putting myself into something above the max paid off. It is a long combination of the many routes I have done before. I have been climbing in this cave for years 😅, especially in Stal mielec I spent one month. I love long battles with climbing project, such a "tired" project tastes best to me because I know that I gave 110%, both physically and mentally.”

Mateusz Haladaj, who did his first of now 19 9a's, in 2009, has sent Fabela pa la enmienda (9a) in Santa Linya. "Absolutely new level of pump, so exhausted after absorbing long time endurance on 125 moves. Seems my perfect anti-style, does not feel soft for sure." (c) Zac Moss

Ben Cossey, who made his first 8a news headline in 2001, reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of Light Weight Baby (8c+), which makes it the hardest route in Arapiles. The 40-year-old projected it for a dozen sessions spread over four trips.

Can you tell us more about the history of the route and your ascent?
The route was first bolted by Sean Myles in about 1992. He and Jerry Moffatt had come out, from what I know, they had a few cracks but generally got arse slammed. The route looks featured and easier than it actually is. Garth Miller and Nick Sutter, Zac Vertrees, Fred Nicole have also had a tickle over the years. Some more than others.

It sits in an awesome spot at Arapilies with a really great view of the plains below. You can also see Punks In The Gym from the base so that’s extra spacial. Obviously, Arapiles is sacred land and Wolfgang [Gullich] made it even more so. So being able to see his classic line from this new route is super radical. I’m not sure if you guys get it in Europe, but the wind at Arapilies, the way it whistles around the cliff crevices make a sound like it’s whispering “Wolfgang”, which is pretty amazing really.

Anyway, the route is stellar. I live in Blackheath NSW, so it’s a long drive to Arapailes. It’s like having a project in El Chorro but living in Vladivostok. So from a logistical PPOV it’s an undertaking. The route also bakes like a turkey in the sun all day so you only get a small window towards the end of the day to try it, which makes it more annoying to get good conditions. But you get that on the big jobs, and we’re not playing for sheep stations, so I just had to get on with it, if you know what I mean. It’s seriously the best route! Great rock and super meaty bouldery moves, great line, great area, great history - I’m really pleased to’ve done it finally. I first saw it when I was 15 years old and it’s sat there, indifferent ever since, like it’s been doing since the dawn of time, waiting to be done. Now it is!

Katalin Paertan has had a productive long weekend in Felbertal, sending two 7C+'s as well as Afterlife soft (8A) and Schluck du Bruder (8A) . "Felt impossible when I briefly tried it some time ago, but today I quickly got the right positions and found myself on top of this stunning line after missing the last hold once."

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
On the first day, I climbed my old nemesis Twisted Moonlight (7C+) and felt very good in Libre soft (7C+), but unfortunately kept dropping it in the easy ending. The next day I finally managed to send Libre quickly and then tried the extension Afterlife soft (8A), which I, after a few more unnecessary falls of course, got up eventually as well. On the third day, we actually planned on only climbing easier boulders, as skin and energy were running quite low, but after feeling very comfortable on Taxi (7B+), I decided to try the full line Schluck du Bruder (8A), of which I quickly got all the moves and after another obligatory top-punt, managed to link them all together.

Sera Gearhart has flashed Zero Zero (7C+) in Squamish. "Gotta eat big to get big, but this time I ate big to get food poisoning [prior to sending]. Pretty soft if you have small fingers, [my] first V10 [7C+] flash."

In the Vertical-Life female ranking game, the 27-year-old is #3, in the boulder ranking, having also completed three 8B's in the last 12 months.