Kacper Heretyk, who the last month added a third and fourth 8c+ redpoint to his scorecard, has done Stal Mielec (9a) in Dolina Kluczwody. The route was originally 8c+ but then artificial holds were removed in 2012 and Piotr Schab made the FA, four years later. (c) Piotr Drożdż

”I put a lot of work into the journey, both on the road and in training, so I'm even more happy that the risk associated with putting myself into something above the max paid off. It is a long combination of the many routes I have done before. I have been climbing in this cave for years 😅, especially in Stal mielec I spent one month. I love long battles with climbing project, such a "tired" project tastes best to me because I know that I gave 110%, both physically and mentally.”

Mateusz Haladaj, who did his first of now 19 9a's, in 2009, has sent Fabela pa la enmienda (9a) in Santa Linya. "Absolutely new level of pump, so exhausted after absorbing long time endurance on 125 moves. Seems my perfect anti-style, does not feel soft for sure." (c) Zac Moss

Ben Cossey, who made his first 8a news headline in 2001, reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of Light Weight Baby (8c+), which makes it the hardest route in Arapiles. The 40-year-old projected it for a dozen sessions spread over four trips.

Can you tell us more about the history of the route and your ascent?
The route was first bolted by Sean Myles in about 1992. He and Jerry Moffatt had come out, from what I know, they had a few cracks but generally got arse slammed. The route looks featured and easier than it actually is. Garth Miller and Nick Sutter, Zac Vertrees, Fred Nicole have also had a tickle over the years. Some more than others.

It sits in an awesome spot at Arapilies with a really great view of the plains below. You can also see Punks In The Gym from the base so that’s extra spacial. Obviously, Arapiles is sacred land and Wolfgang [Gullich] made it even more so. So being able to see his classic line from this new route is super radical. I’m not sure if you guys get it in Europe, but the wind at Arapilies, the way it whistles around the cliff crevices make a sound like it’s whispering “Wolfgang”, which is pretty amazing really.

Anyway, the route is stellar. I live in Blackheath NSW, so it’s a long drive to Arapailes. It’s like having a project in El Chorro but living in Vladivostok. So from a logistical PPOV it’s an undertaking. The route also bakes like a turkey in the sun all day so you only get a small window towards the end of the day to try it, which makes it more annoying to get good conditions. But you get that on the big jobs, and we’re not playing for sheep stations, so I just had to get on with it, if you know what I mean. It’s seriously the best route! Great rock and super meaty bouldery moves, great line, great area, great history - I’m really pleased to’ve done it finally. I first saw it when I was 15 years old and it’s sat there, indifferent ever since, like it’s been doing since the dawn of time, waiting to be done. Now it is!

Katalin Paertan has had a productive long weekend in Felbertal, sending two 7C+'s as well as Afterlife soft (8A) and Schluck du Bruder (8A) . "Felt impossible when I briefly tried it some time ago, but today I quickly got the right positions and found myself on top of this stunning line after missing the last hold once."

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
On the first day, I climbed my old nemesis Twisted Moonlight (7C+) and felt very good in Libre soft (7C+), but unfortunately kept dropping it in the easy ending. The next day I finally managed to send Libre quickly and then tried the extension Afterlife soft (8A), which I, after a few more unnecessary falls of course, got up eventually as well. On the third day, we actually planned on only climbing easier boulders, as skin and energy were running quite low, but after feeling very comfortable on Taxi (7B+), I decided to try the full line Schluck du Bruder (8A), of which I quickly got all the moves and after another obligatory top-punt, managed to link them all together.

Sera Gearhart has flashed Zero Zero (7C+) in Squamish. "Gotta eat big to get big, but this time I ate big to get food poisoning [prior to sending]. Pretty soft if you have small fingers, [my] first V10 [7C+] flash."

In the Vertical-Life female ranking game, the 27-year-old is #3, in the boulder ranking, having also completed three 8B's in the last 12 months.

Soline Kentzel has made the fourth female ascent of Le voyage (8b+) in Annot, after working it during five trips. Interestingly, 8b+ is also her personal best on bolts and her resume also includes an ascent of Golden Gate, on El Capitan, in 2022. (c) Julia Cassou

"Le Voyage always had a mystical dimension in my eyes. I no longer know exactly how the desire, mixed with anxiety and curiosity, to confront it appeared, but it has been on my mind for a while. I was trying my maximum level in trad climbing the logical next step in my climbing journey? Is it pretentious? This is the feeling that comes over me, while watching a video of Babsi Zangerl, who is none other than the climber I admire the most. In any case, as I often like to say: if everything goes wrong, it would still be excellent training for my future goals.

And the first climbs confirmed my fears: dangling on the static rope, I understood nothing about climbing, and the gap between the protections seemed quite frightening. Despite everything, it was love at first sight. Firstly because it's beautiful but above all, because I realized the magnitude of the challenge this line represents for me. I realized that I dream of being a climber capable of reaching the top of this wall; and that, physically and mentally, I am not there yet. Becoming that climber, able of climbing the line of her dreams, that unique crack that escapes towards the sky, will henceforth be my reason for climbing.

When I came back the fifth time, my mindset had evolved: I arrived more humble, prepared for things not to go as planned, and found ways to reduce the pressure. some of my close friends were there, and I felt their support. Deep down, I knew this time I was here to deliver the final blow and that I wouldn’t leave without succeeding, no matter the consequences for my studies and other obligations. Finally, this time the stars aligned, or almost: on the second day, I fell with my hand in the final jug, a bit too low, probably due to a left biceps failure. No problem, I had integrated the sensations, and it was only a matter of time. When I finally linked the moves, under my friends’ encouragement, not a grain of sand disturbed the unique sequence of this vertical precariousness. Even the run-out section after the upper crux didn’t perturb my serenity (though my legs trembled a bit—it had been a while since I left the ground…). I breathed calmly before engaging in the very last section, a round and awkward crack that had caused more than one drop of sweat. Finally, I clipped the anchor, overwhelmed with immense relief: I could finally end this exclusive relationship, leaving this jewel behind. Enjoy a few moments of respite before falling again into the trap of another dream line."