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Second 9a for Pirmin Bertle  |
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Pirmin Bertle has done Cabane au Canada, 9a in Rawyl. "One of the best hard lines in Switzerland. Pure endurance on 80 hard moves in one big overhanging slab. With 19 tries (at least for me :) a quite fast ascent." Pirmin is #9 in the ranking game.
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| 8c+ (9a) by Giuseppe Nolasco |
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Instrapiombo reports that Giuseppe "Pippo" Nolasco has done the second repeat of Alberto Gnerro's SS26 at Gressonay. Pippo suggests a downgrade to 8c+ which was earlier suggested by Gabriele Moroni as well.
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| OS slaughter again by Ramonet |
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 Ramón Julian Puigblanque had a nice weekend, onsighting Grandes y poderosas, 8b+ in Margalef and three 8bs. Ramonet, who won both in Chamonix and Arco in a rather superior style, is #2 in the 8a ranking game. More info at Ramon's blog (in spanish)
Picture (c) M.ALBA
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| 8b (a+) by Sasha Digiulian (17) |
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Sasha Digiulian has done Fuego, 8b (a+) in Arco and she extends her lead in the female junior ranking game. Saha has been #3 in the Youth World Champion and she did five 7C boulders when she was 13-years-old.
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| First 8b+ by Simone Baechler |
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Simone Baechler has done her first 8b+, Marc at Gastlosen. Simone has previously done three 8b's.
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| 8b by Stasa Gejo (12) (2) |
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Stasa Gejo who has won almost all comps she has entered and also won Petzen Climbing Trophy -14 has done her first 8b, Future Land in Jelasnica.
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| 8B+ by Dave Graham |
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Dave Graham has done the first repeat of Death Trout, 8B+ in Mt. Evans put up by Daniel Woods two weeks ago. Dave is #3 in the Combined ranking game for which he has been #1 for six years since 8a started in 2000.
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| First 9a by Mathieu Bouyoud |
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Mathieu Bouyoud has done his first 9a and the FA of Shortcut in La Balme. Mathieu has had sic years of steady progress and is now #5 in the ranking game.
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| First 8B+ by Arjan de Kock (1) |
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Arjan de Kock has done Madiba, 8B+ in Rocklands. During the last month, Arjan has done eight 8A+ and harder included a flash of Green Mamba.
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| 7c+ by Brooke Raboutou (9) (5) |
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 Brooke Raboutou has on her second try done Octopus, 7c+ in Gorges du Tarn. The 9-year-old is daughter to legends Didier and Robyn Erbesfield. More pics from the ascent at Raboutoufamily.blogspot.com
Older brother Shawn (12) did last month Attention on vous regarde, 8b+ in Gorges du Tarn.
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| 8B+ FA by Daniel Woods |
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Daniel Woods has done the FA of Death Trout in Mt. Evans. "Amazing new classic...Ultimate compression to a hard move at the top, epic top out!" The 20-year-old is the #1 in the world ranking game.
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| 8B+ FA by Chris Webb Parsons |
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Chris Webb Parsons has done the FA of One Of A Kind, 8B+ in Sydney.
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| 8c and 8b MP by David Lama (12) |
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Planetmountain reports that David Lama has done Bellavista,8c on the Cima Ovest of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and Voie Petit, 8b on Gran Capucin. David Lama, born 1990, won the European Champion in Lead and Bouldering in 2006/2007. Being just 16, he was #2 in the overall Lead World Cup.
During the last years he has been focusing more on MP and alpinism and the last winter Red Bull wanted to make a film of him doing the Compressor Route at Cerro Torre, which was thwarted due to bad weather. They have been criticized for adding new bolts and leaving gear.
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| 8a on 3 800 metres by Martina Cufar (3) |
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Martina Cufar has done Digital crack at Aguille du Midi above Chamonix, 3 800 metres above sea level. Is this the highest located 8a in Europe?
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| The Firnenburg brothers rock |
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Ruben Firnenburg (13) has done Witchcraft, 8a (+) and his brother David Firnenburg (15) has done Ronin, 8c i Frankenjura. Are the Firnenburg brothers the best climbing teenagers in the world?
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| Two 8b+ onsight by Ramonet |
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Ramón Julian Puigblanque onsighted yesterday two 8b+' in Sant Llorenç del Munt. Ramonet is #2 in the ranking game.
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| 8b by Alexandra Kordick |
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Alexandra Kordick has done The Bride Of Frankenstein, 8b in Rifle. "A great power endurance shortie! Totally my style, thanks for the beta Nate and Wendy for enduring the mosquitoes at the base to belay."
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| Two 8A's by Marlene Graf |
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Gerhard Miran reports, "Marlene Graf (28) from Bavaria, who is now living in Innsbruck, did "Niviuk" 8A and "Zwidawurz" 8A at Silvretta. She did the two problems within 2 days. Marlene already has climbed boulder-problems up to 8A+ and routes up to 8b/b+. Marlene works fulltime as physiotherapist in Innsbruck/Zirl."
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| 8b by Nina Caprez again |
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Nina Caprez has done L'ami de tout le monde, 8b in Céüse which means that she during the last three weeks have done four 8b's and harder.
"olala, 100% not my style! This route was the ultimate challenge for me. I decided to do it for my progression. I needed 8 trys, I think this is the max I ever spent in a route...I'm really really psyched, because in the beginning I wasn't able to do the moves but each try, my body learnt to do this physichal moves. Now it's time for a break, climbing is to hard!;-)"
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| 9a by Malcolm Smith (37) (3) |
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Markmcgowan reports that 37-year-old Malcolm Smith has done the FA of Hunger in Anvil. One month ago he made the FA of an 8c+. Malcolm who did 8c+ already in 1990 has also done 8B+ boulders. In 2002, he was #2 in the Boulder World Cup.
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| Paul Robinson New Blog |
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Paul Robinson has created a new blog. This blog will document his travels all over the world for the next couple of years. This is the update to his old blog "the adventures of Paul Robinson." Paul is headed to South Africa first for 2 months in Rocklands.
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| 8b by Martina Cufar |
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Martina Cufar has done L'attaque de la moussaka geante, 8b in Suet and onsighted Bulfrog avenue, 8a in Gorges du Tarn. Martina won the world champion in 2001 and is maybe the number one reason why there are so many very successful Slovenian girls in the World Cup. During the last few years, Martina has been focusing on sky-diving.
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| 8B+ by Graham and Cardwell |
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David Graham and Jon Cardwell have repeated Evil Backwards in Mt. Evans which Daniel Wodds put up last week.
Dave says, "climbed it in three small sessions, SYKED... a very cool roof climb, almost swiss style, and very resistant, with tensiony moves on edges...feeling like i'm kinda back in the game again for granite bouldering, and looking forward to the next months at wolverineland"
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| 9a by Chris Sharma and then Ramonet |
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 Ramón Julian Puigblanque has done Samfaina, 9a in Margalef which Chris Sharma put up two weeks ago. It was an old Andoni Perez project that took him Ramonet five tries to do. Ramon, who won the world champion in 2007, is #2 in the 8a ranking game. (c) Miquel Roman
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| 8B+ by Carlo Traversi (9) |
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 Carlo Traversi has done his second 8B+, Aslan in RMNP. "Once again the solo mission prevails. A bit intimidating with one pad and no spotter. 24 moves and only a pad for the last one. Feeling fit." He also filmed the ascent! and here his blog.
Carlo did also flash Unshackled sit for which he confirms the down grading to 7C+. Carlo is #7 in the ranking game.
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| First 8c by Helena Alemán (5) |
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Helena Alemán has done her first 8c, Peti qui peti in Sant Llorenç del Munt. Helena has previously done three 8b+' and she is #5 in the ranking game.
Last week she won the spanish cup. More pics at her blogspot (c) Vincent Palau.
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| 8A+ by Angie Payne |
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B3bouldering reports that Angie Payne has done No More Greener Grasses, 8A+ in Mt Evans. Angie who previously have done several 8a's and 8a+'s spent four days on the nice boulder.
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| Second 8c by Jacinda Hunter (9) |
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Jacinda Hunter, mother of four between 5 and 11, has done her first 8c which is the FA of Fantasy Island at American Fork. "Bolted 15 or 20 years ago by Geoff Weigand. Worked for a season and a half to finally send. Psyched!"
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| 7C+ and 8A+ flashes by Puccio and Parsons |
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 Alex Puccio has flashed Fireball 7C+ in RMNP. It is a 6 move power problem on a huge boulder at over 10,000ft. Alex regains the lead in the ranking game, 6 respectively 7 points ahead of the #2 and the #3.
Chris Webb Parsons also flashed it and then he flashed the steep and powerful roof, Stranger in a Strange Land 8A+. (c) © Jamie Emerson, who also have more info at B3, did also the 8A+.
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| Two 8A+' flash by Hukkataival (1) |
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 Nalle Hukkataival is on a road trip in Norway and apparantely he has been lucky with the weather as he has flashed two 8A+' and done two 8B's including The Diamond at Vingsand. "World class! Amazing problem! 1 day ascent. Not 8B+ in my opinion." Other websites have reported it as an 8B+ although Nalle did the FA!?
Pic© Nalle Hukkataival: view from the top of Sunseeker, Mt. Evans, CO.
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| 8b+ and 8b by by Nina Caprez |
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 Nina Caprez left the long routes apart for a time after bagging Hotel Supramonte and spent some time in Céüse, where tried the same routes than Arnaud Petit, having really good conditions ("it was hyper cold and there was the pure friction"), succeding with Le chirurgien du crepuscule, 8b and The Black Bean, 8b+ ("4 tries...definitely my climbing style. Voilà. number 2, hihi....")
Nina is #3 in the 8a ranking game and in her blog you can find what she thinks are the keys for being successfull in climbing: "it is the people around me. I was with an incredible group, people I admire a lot and, above all, people who don't beat themselves up about anything and with whom I laugh all the time"
In the same days, her boyfriend, Cedric Lachat, was able to fire-off an old project of him, Ba, ba, black sheep, 8c+ and La parte de diable, 8c+.
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| 8c+ in between 2 Bouldering WC's (4) |
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 Guillaume Glairon-Mondet who was #11 last weekend at Moscow returned back to France where he tried out a new preperation idea by doing Ba, ba black sheep, 8c+ in Céüse.
On friday, the #5 in the Bouldering World Cup, competes in Eindhoven in the Netherlands. Guillaume is #12 in the 8a Combined ranking game.
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| 8B (+) by Romain Desgranges |
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boulderinginfo.over-blog.com reports that Romain Desgranges has done Théo Chappex' Gautama in Branson for which he suggest a downgrade to 8B. Branson is a hard core place with an average grade of 7C in the 8a data base. Fred Nicole has some impressive FA's during the 90-ies, like Les Danse del Balrogs which also have been subject of down grading.
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| Ramón Julián's ticklist in June |
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 June hasn't finished yet and Ramón Julián Puigblanqué hasn't done it bad outdoors considering he's inmersed in the Spanish comps (he won the first ledge) and the preparation for the WC circuit. Next, his best but not only performances are listed:
- In Margalef he sent , 9a in 3 tries; Coma Sant Pere, 8c+ in 2 tries and several 8a routes on-sight.
- In Camarasa he did the FA of Airba ese, 8c+.
Pic: Ramonet in falta de gan by Kiku.
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| Woods: Brazil, RMNP and Australia (1) |
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Daniel Woods who won the Boulder WC in Vail has been on a quick stop over in Brazil where he did three 8B's and won a comp in Curitiba. "Now projects in RMNP bumbaclot!!!" And then he is off to Australia.
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| Rocky Mountain National Park Action |
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Ticklist to RMNP based on 4 905 ascent where we have seen some impressive sends lately. James Webb did grab his second 8B+, Aslan which is a 20+ moves power endurance challenge compared to the two move crux Jade. During the last month, James has done ten 8A+ and harder in RMNP.
Brion Voges and Jon Cardwell have had done two 8B's, Top Notch and Don't get too Greedy.
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| 9a FA by Cris Zehani (36) (5) |
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 Cris Zehani has opened Corrida, 9a at Fetid Beach. "3 and a half year, 70 sessions and 200 tries". 36-year-old Cris has had a sensational progress for 15 straight years, see the trend diagram.
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| 8A+ flash by Arjan de Kock (3) |
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Arjan de Kock has flashed Green Mamba in Rocklands and confirms the down grading to 8A+. "One of my best moments ever, I didn't believe it!"
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| 9a FA by Lukasz Dudek (1) |
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Lukasz Dudek has opened Made in Poland in Podzamcze and goes to #4 in the world ranking game.
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| 8B by Anthony Gullsten (18) |
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Anthony Gullsten has done One summer in paradise, 8B in Magic Woods. During the last rainy week, the 18-year-old, also did two 8A+', Massive attack and Pura Vida.
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| 8A (+) by Angie Payne (2) |
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B3bouldering reports that Angie Payne has done Clear blue skies in Mount Evans for which she suggests a downgrade to 8A. Originally the problem was even considered as an 8B. Angie has previously done three 8A+'.
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| Another young talent - Alexander Megos (8) |
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 In april, Alexander Megos from Germany, a sixteen years old talent from Bavaria, fired-off the not so frequented Wallstreet, 8c in Frankenjura after only five tries.
But this kid is not only well versed outdoors since he was also crowned 1st in the European Youth Series celebrated in Imst (Austria). In 2009, he won all the four European Youth Cups he participated in.
Jan Hojer update, "Pain makes me feel stronger every day" 8c+ (also frankenjura) in a few tries, fast ascents of 8c's and "pietra murata" 8b+ onsight (arco)!!!!"
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| 8c+ FA by Malcolm Smith (37) (1) |
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Scottishclimbs reports that the living legend Malcolm Smith (37) has done the FA of Blood Diamond, 8c+ at Anvil. Malcolm repeated Hubble, 8c+ being 18-years-old in 1992, has bouldered 8B+ and is also famous for his tough training regimes. In 2002, he was #2 in the Boulder World Cup.
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| 8a OS and 8a+ Flash by Jenny Lavarda |
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Jenny Lavarda has onsighted Formica atomica, 8a and Apache, 8a+ in Baratro and she is #3 in the ranking game. Last year, Jenny did the multi-pitch, Solo per vecchi guerrieri, 8c+.
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| Margarita Martinez (52) gives us hope (1) |
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Margarita Martinez started to climb when she was 34 and at 50 she was knocking at the 8a door and one year later she did Dirty Smelly Hippie, 8a at Red River Gorge.
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| 8b by Barbara Raudner (37) |
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Barbara Raudner has done Zwuckimu, 8b in Kaernten. Last year, she did an 8b+. barbararaudner.at (in german)
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| Thomasina Pidgeon checks in as #2 (1) |
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 Thomasina Pidgeon has just created a scorecard with 321 ascents including seven 8A's and harder in 2010, putting her as #2 in the world ranking game.
Urbanclimbermag interview by the mother of Cedar. (c) Melissa Strong
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| 8B+ (C) by James Webb (10) |
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 James Webb has done Jade in RMNP and he confirms the down grade suggestion made by Carlo Traversi to 8B+. Both these guys had 8B as a previous best. James (23) who has done five 8B's in the last months has a very interesting trend diagram. James blogspot.
Jade V14 from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.
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| 8b by Alizée Dufraisse |
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Alizée Dufraisse has done L'ami de tout le monde, 8b in Céüse and she is #1 in the 8a combined ranking game. In 2003, she was Youth World Champion and last year she won the Boulder event at Arco Rock Master and got one bronze in the lead WC. Interview from last year
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| 8b trad by Tim Emmet |
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UKClimbing reports that Tim Emmot has done Muy Caliente, 8b (E10 6c) at Stennis Ford. "The section to the gear would warrant E9 in its own right, featuring F8a climbing in a very dangerous position.
The crux comes after the gear and is the equivalent of a V7 boulder problem. It bumps the whole route up to F8b."
Old Climbing.com interview with Tim who does it all: BASE jumping, wing suit piloting, bigwall, mixed, speed, sport, and DWS climbing. timemmett.com
Welsh Connections - Pembroke. Award winning short film - Rock Climbing from Bamboo Chicken Productions on Vimeo.
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