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2008-02-01 00:00:00 |
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Dani Andrada and Edu Marin have done La fabela pa la enmienda, 9a in Santa Linya. This was the fifth combination of ...la enmienda for Andrada. Edu is #5 in the world ranking mainly based on routes he has done the last 30 days in Santa Linya.
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2008-02-02 00:07:18 |
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It sounds like a joke: while 8a has just started the much needed initiative to list the most (in)famous unrepeated routes in the 9th grade, those guys work on an n'th combination on the same piece of rock. We all have our favourite crags, close to where we live and try out different sequences, for training purposes, fun or just because we don't have time to go some other place. But when the top climbers announce such sends as new routes, then it's just pathetic.
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2008-02-02 00:49:16 |
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Fully agreed Martin...if there was nothing to climb but combos of existing routes...but there is...and: is Huber`s Open Air 9a+? Or is it just a real 9a, from a time when people had to work for these routes a lomg time and couldnīt send them in a few tries...have 9as gotten softer or were Huber, Gresham, Rhouling, Talmadge etc. really THAT far ahead of everyone else...it`s a shame that so much talent gets wasted on combos whereas the real challenges wait somewhere else...
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2008-02-02 11:41:57 |
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Ay
Have you been to Santa Linya? Check it once and you will understand why they climb so much there :D
Creo que: Argue less climb more!
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2008-02-02 23:13:49 |
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I fully agree that grades shouldn't matter that much and that it is better to climb more and argue less. But I am inclined to agree with some of the above when climbers start sending 9a 2nd and 3rd go, and several new 9a every week. Obviously climbers are becoming stronger. I don't think this development can be stopped. However, I believe that the current pace of the development is a mix of climbers getting stronger and that routes are being graded softer. There are still guys out there who need 30+ days to send a 9a/9a+ despite the fact that they climbed 9a already 5-10 years ago. Unless you have repeated at least one of the older classics that set the standard for 8c+/9a/9a+, it's hard to claim the grade on an FA. That's my opinion. Whatever the case, future will tell!
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2008-02-03 14:14:14 |
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Just for your info, this route is the combination of Fabela, a brand new route weighting 8c+, plus the second pitch of La enmienda, 8b.
I agree with you that there are still lots of unrepeated routes out there, but everyone can do whatever he likes in order to enjoy climbing. So, if they don't like the style of those other routes, they're far from home or they just don't give a fuck, why should they go to try them?
It's more understandable in the case of Edu since he's inmersed in an intensive indoor training period, being these days of outdoor climbing like a break for him, besides he can't travel far from home because of the first reason. Anyway, I think he's proven to dispatch wherever he's gone (Kinematix, on sighting 8a+ multipitch in Norway, etc).
On the other hand, these combinations seem quite logical to me since you have the option to stop at the first anchor in the middle of the cave or to carry on with the second part of what is an old route. Remember it's all about having fun and trying to better yourself.
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2008-02-03 16:38:59 |
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Martin: La Traversia Enmienda takes a massive left to right diagonal line through the cave along a natural line of weakness. La Novena Enmienda climbs a 25m, ish, 8c/+ direct into the final half of the "traverse." Some of these new "variations" climb through the cave to the right and join the final section of Enmienda even higher up to finish. To call these new routes "training variations" because they finish up the same final section just shows that you've not been to Santa Linya and seen how big the place is. You could easily climb a new route that finishes up Enmienda with 35m of new climbing on it before it joins it.
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