Fabrizio Peri (52) completes Tomorrowland L2 (8c+/9a)
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying the route before the pandemic. Two years of attempts, specific training, and nutrition I had always under control, but nothing [achieved]. I managed to do it with only one rest but I never succeeded on a move in the center of the route, not even starting from a hanging position... I couldn't give up because I felt that if I had taken that step the route was ready, but that launch [dyno] just wasn't working. The decision is made...I give it up. For another four years, I climbed between the Grottone in Sperlonga and the Pala in Collepardo but my thoughts always went to that passage, there in that meter of the wall at the Cueva. A few months ago I returned, I was determined, I didn't have to be stronger, I had to change the method. And in fact, for the first time, I was able to make that movement that seemed impossible. Then yesterday the north wind accompanied me to the chains!!!!!
How were you able to suddenly solve the crux?
I tried a different beta. Instead of going with my left hand to a closer grip I tried to go with my right to the farthest grip and that movement, which I thought was impossible, turned out to be the right one.
How do you train?
I get to rock climb two times a week and train the rest of the days for about 2 hours for each workout. I alternate strength and endurance training, but I prefer endurance training because it is less traumatic compared to maximal exercises. I also make a couple of trips each year to Spain.
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