Stefano Ghisolfi sends Action Directe (9a)
”I was quite close to do it already in 2017 but I didn't come back before this trip. I almost did it on the second day with a new heel beta, that is a bit easier but more low percentage. So in the third day of this trip I went with the regular beta and did it.”
Can you describe the new heal beta? Did you find it yourself?
Yes. It is by the last quickdraw, the one that is skipped. I use a right heel from a left undercling to go right hand to a two finger pocket. As single move it's easier because I can skip two hard moves but it's sketchy and you can easily slip.
What are your upcoming plans?
I have few projects in Arco for this winter and then I'll start training for the Olympic qualification series.
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…
Action Directe (9a) by Vojta Trojan
Vojta Trojan, who already has eight 9a's to his name, has done Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. "The day of the send AD was all wet when we got there - I did…
Moritz Welt completes Action Directe
Moritz Welt, who previously has sent 18 routes 9a and 9a+, has done Wolfgang Gullich’s classic Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. Since the FA in 1991, it has …
Action Directe 9a by Buster Martin
Buster Martin has done Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura after projecting it for only five days. Wolfgang Güllich did the first ascent in 1991 and it is consid…
Action Directe (9a) by Vojta Trojan
Vojta Trojan, who already has eight 9a's to his name, has done Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. "The day of the send AD was all wet when we got there - I did…
Moritz Welt completes Action Directe
Moritz Welt, who previously has sent 18 routes 9a and 9a+, has done Wolfgang Gullich’s classic Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. Since the FA in 1991, it has …
Action Directe 9a by Buster Martin
Buster Martin has done Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura after projecting it for only five days. Wolfgang Güllich did the first ascent in 1991 and it is consid…
Katie Lamb makes history
Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP (Misc/Unsorted). Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew …
Schubert sends Project Big during his 6th Live attempt
"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…